Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear

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In autumn 2021 Galloway & Southern Ayrshire UNESCO Biosphere launched a pilot project to explore new uses for wool from Blackface sheep. Our goal was to promote the versatility of wool and its diverse potential as a sustainable resource, hoping to add value to a fleece that has seen its market decline in recent decades due to competition from manmade fibres and clothing produced cheaply abroad. The project represents the GSA Biosphere’s commitment to the circular economy and historic rural industry, raising awareness of just some of the challenges faced by farmers today.

The Scottish Blackface is one of our most familiar breeds of native sheep and particularly suited to life in the GSA Biosphere’s upland areas. Blackface history stretches back into the mists of time; first mentioned in monastery records of the 12^th century, they are hardy animals that thrive on hill pasture, even in inclement weather. Today their wool is typically sold for use in the carpet and mattress trades in the UK and Europe, and wastage in production and processing is high. Our team believed there could still be a market for hardwearing woollen garments that are locally made, and that increasing interest in sustainability across a wide consumer demographic could provide the foundation for a clothing enterprise that utilises Blackface wool.

The project attracted funding support from The Blackface Sheep Breeders’ Association and drew on the expertise of British Wool, who helped source 1,000kg of fine grade Blackface wool from farms in the GSA Biosphere region. Other partners including Knitlab North and Stoll joined the exciting journey from scouring and spinning to designing prototype garments. One of the UK’s leading figures in sustainable luxury knitwear, Jo Storie, came on board as designer and consultant.

Our Blackface pilot also developed a social side, ‘The Wool Gathering’, which now has approaching 600 members including farmers, business owners, makers and creatives. Several have had the opportunity to test samples of the Blackface yarn on domestic machines, peg looms, and in personal dyeing, knitting and felting projects. The Wool Gathering has an active Facebook group that always welcomes new members; this is a place for anyone who loves wool, produces wool, or is simply curious about its history, production and uses. Whenever possible we try to get together in person, at ‘Bleat n’ Blether’ events.

The GSA Biosphere’s work with wool attracted media attention with a feature on ITV’s Border Life in 2022, and an invitation to join British Wool at the Royal Highland Show in 2023, where the public were able to see, feel, and share their thoughts on the first four styles of garments we and our partners produced, each one made with 100% Blackface wool. This was the beginning of market research and brand development, as we prepared to launch a range of outerwear items for sale.

In November 2023 we launched the GSA Biosphere Partnership’s first trading arm, Biosphere Enterprises Ltd, and the pioneering social enterprise Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear. The set up was supported by a landmark Crowdfunder campaign, which raised more than £13,000 in just four weeks. All Merrick garments are made with the finest grade wool from Blackface sheep, all of it sourced here in the UNESCO designated region, and uniquely for the Scottish luxury knitwear market, all Merrick’s profits will be put back into Biosphere projects that benefit the environment and our rural communities. In Wool Month 2024 the full Merrick Knitwear range went on general sale on our brand new website, merrickscotland.com.

Merrick is particularly proud to be able to pay above market value for the fleece we buy, ensuring improved profits for local farmers. Alongside our partners we hope to demonstrate that the potential of Blackface wool is much greater than its current uses suggest, and that in time far fewer fleeces will go to waste. There is still much more of this story to come – do sign up to the newsletter on merrickscotland.com, and follow Merrick Scottish Blackface Knitwear on Instagram and on Facebook to keep up to date.

Interested in finding out more directly from our team? Get in touch via info@gsabiosphere.org.uk.